Journeys through Asturias, greenest Spain

“The Road Goes Ever On and On…Down to thelong as they are in a good spot, and kiwis (must
Door Where It Began”. So wrote J.R.R. Tolkien,have come with the eucalyptus). As with real estate,
creator of “The Lord Of the Rings”. My familyeverything is ‘location, location’. A
lives in Middle-Earth; around here it’s calledprotected hill-side facing south is perfect for flora
Asturias. Surrounded by green mountains and rollingthat need the heat. Which is also a good spot for
hills, the landscape bears strong resemblance to thetomatoes, peppers, or melons. There many gardens
descriptions found in Tolkien’s works. Locatedhere, both floral and vegetable. Sometimes they pop
on the north coast of Spain, Asturias is known forup in surprising places, far from any house, along side
being fresh, temperate and green. Very green.some path with stone walls and thick hedges. Rows
Spaniards call it “Paraiso Natural”, a ‘Naturalof corn, with beans climbing the stalks; potatoes and
Paradise’. Wandering around the countrysidevaried greens; different vegetables and herbs;
here, I half expect to see elves, trolls, and halflings-produce and plenty in season. A careful eye will spot
and I must say some folk around here do indeedwild herbs when moving about the land: mint, thyme,
resemble hobbits, or characters out of amarjoram, rosemary…some of these have been
children’s story. Very quaint and picturesque.planted, and grown wild, others happen on their own.
As I go walking around this land, the thought ofWatch out for stinging nettles, but at least there is
roads and ways ‘going ever on’ becomesno poison ivy!
reality. Every village is connected to the surroundingI have learned something about grazing animals from
fields and woods by a network of linking cowpaths,all this. Even regular milk cows have a natural
which ultimately reach the next set of paths, and soenvironment (outside of feed-lots and stalls).
on. Tolkien was right, all roads are one, like a riverSometimes during a walk a clearing in the woods will
with many branches. That’s what I love mostappear, and behold! Cows grazing among the trees
about the walking (or running or biking or horsebackand in the meadows. They actually like wandering
or however you choose); every time is different,about, feeding off the land, winding in and out among
because after 4 years of exploring here I still findthe trees, clambering up hill-sides, getting a cool drink
new ways, paths I have yet to tread, or newfrom the creek, relaxing in the shade…just like
connections with the old ones. This is real magic.humans! Deer are also found, and it is quite common
The environment here is similar to that of lowerto encounter these. There is a smaller kind and a
Britain, to Atlantic France. But much softer in climate,larger more standard variety (bushy white tails) and
warmer and sunnier (at times). The coastal north ofthese will graze where they find pasture, or move
Spain is separated from the rest of the peninsula byaround the woods. Wild boar are plentiful, and hunting
a chain of mountains, the Cantabric mountain range.for these and the deer are common. Some areas
This blocks out the southern heat, and forms ahave been designated ‘hunting zones’, as
southern border to the great Maritime Arc ofwell as the ‘fishing zones’. This is a trout
North-West Europe. This is about as far south oneand salmonarea; the coast is of course known for
can go and still be in Northern Europe, geographically.the variety and abundance of marine life. In the
Culturally is another story, because many differenthigher mountains there are bear and wolves, but so
people have come through this land at one time orfar I have stuck more to the
another. The Celtic influence is strong; bagpipes and‘in- between’ places, away from the coast
wooden shoes are commonplace. So are castanyetsand yet below the heights. We are here surrounded
(Arabic finger cymbals), Gypsy sounds from Andaluciaby lower mountains, yet impressive. These provide a
(South Spain), and olive oil from the Mediterranean.plethora of ways to go, from hilly countryside to
Asturias is certainly part of Spain, only it lies up north,higher climbs, where the trees thin out and goats
beyond a barrier of high mountainspasture. The autochthonous breed of cow (usually
(the tallest peak is the third-highest in Europe) thatfor meat) is the ‘Asturian of the Mountains’
have historically blocked out much of the rest of thewhich half resembles a goat in it’s lanky
country. The mountains are hard to get over, buttoughness, narrow head with goatish horns, and the
these days tunnels drilled through work well, whatability to scramble over rocky mountain-sides with
with the freeway and all…a high speed train line isthe best of them. These days, with a declining human
due at some point in the future, so for now wepopulation, and a vanishing tradition of cowherding,
must content ourselves with standard Eurorail. Therepeople are putting a variety of grazing animals out to
is an international airport as well. By car it’s 4pasture, if only to keep the grass down and maintain
hours to Madrid, and about 3 hours to the borderthe fields. Sheep, goats, horses, donkeys, whatever
with France. Asturias is an average 50 miles (90 km)will eat the prairie- we know a family that keeps
wide, and a debatable 150 miles long (depending howostriches!
you mark it).One of the best routes to take in this particular area
Given the climate, this is too far north for muchis called Fuensanta, which takes its name from the
wine-making, but apple trees grow in abundance, sofamous springwater found there. This water is
alcoholic cider is the local drink. And it is renownedbottled and sold throughout Europe, and the natural
throughout Spain, now gaining popularity abroad asbeauty and freshness of the place tells why. Here is
well. The cider is thin and vinegary, best for clearinga gorge which rises steeply into the mountains,
the digestion, although there is also a sweet version,reaching a series of waterfalls which are the source
without alcohol. I like it after a nice run through thefor all this wetness. Fill your bottles up at the
hills, which brings us back to the paths. When onebeginning of the path (there is a public fountain) and
goes out ‘trekking’ it will soon be noticedwalk the 6 mile (10 km) loop, following the rise of the
that there are many many trees, including the apple.land to the falls and then descending again. Make sure
Chestnut, oak, sycamore, ash, beech, walnut, hazel,you brought some empty bottles in the car so you
firs, and eucalyptus…which is an import that tookcan fill them up for drinking at home.
root in the last century. There are also some palms,Yes, we live in Middle-Earth. I know this to be true
especially closer to the coast (another import ofwhen on an early morning the mist hangs over the
course). In orchards or standing alone there arevalleys and dales between hills, when the rolling fields
cherry, pear, apple, plum, fig, peach, besides arise to meet the looming mountains at sunset, when
multitude of berry bushes- blackberry, currant,the stars shine clear and bright in the night-sky. The
raspberry, european blueberry. A favorite pastimeview from a highpoint shows the landscape dotted
when out and about is stopping to enjoy some ofwith houses, fields, grazing animals, gardens, fruit
nature’s gifts, a welcome refreshment on atrees, and the wooded slopes of the mountains
long hike.surround valleys of hills. There is land to plow and
It bears repeating that although this is a Northernwoods to walk and waters to swim. The sea is less
clime, Asturias is far enough south to support athan an hour away from the ski-slopes on high
variety of flora; in addition to the trees named abovemountains, whose peaks are snowy most of the
there are oranges and lemons that do quite well, asyear and tower in the distance.